Marilyn Monroe Meets Barbie On Acid: Prabal Gurung SS14 Collection
Prabal Gurung is a go-to designer for many, a Hollywood starlet for a beautifully cut dress, more often than not embellished with a vibrant print. The SS14 show however marked a turning point in the labels aesthetic; with everything from production values of the show to the craftsmanship of the garments stepped up a notch. Staged at Skylight at Moynihan Station, the models lined up behind a plastic veil, building anticipation for what was to come.
The inspiration for the show was Marilyn Monroe, “It’s a celebration of the elegant woman; she’s becoming an endangered species,” Gurung said before his show. “I wanted to put her in a modern context with the right amount of danger.” The resulting collection was an explosion of colour and texture; with waspy 50’s silhouettes married with exceedingly modern production techniques. Think the New Look meets Barbie on acid.
Before launching his eponymous label in 2009, Gurung cut his teeth at Bill Blass so sportswear is in his design DNA. What’s interesting is how it’s now blended with a ladylike sensibility; details such as ruched cuffs and sloping shoulders rendered in sugary satins, evening wear given a casual ease by the addition of pockets to nonchalantly thrust ones hands in and waists cinched with clean and clear pvc belts.
Intelligent pattern cutting was evident in the figure hugging midi skirts, the dropped sleeves and the panelled jackets. Crisp white shirts had exaggerated cocoon sleeves with the backs subverted with peculiar Perspex racer details. The florals of spring were far from absent, with roses running through in distorted prints, textural fabrications, to rings and vintage feeling rosette buttons. For us the highlight of the show was the combination of print and Perspex. Truly innovative, Gurung screen-printed his amplified roses onto PVC skirts and coats resulting in a beautiful translucence of print and layers in a riot of yellow and green.
Our picks; the Avant garde, lightweight Perspex coats, hitting half way down the calf in glorious prints, a perfect shelter from spring showers and the more commercial, blue boucle bomber jacket and midi skirt combo complete with etched floral motifs. A perfect display of extraordinary craftsmanship and innovation, Gurung proved that conceptual design and outlandish girlishness are a delightful combination.
