We’ve got the low down on Emilio de la Morena
The last day of London Fashion Week is always a little bitter sweet. On the one hand we’re doing our best to stop sad, salty tears from falling in to our freshly ground coffees, but on the other hand we’re feeling jittery with excitement, hoping that the best has been saved ‘til last.
This season, the best really had been saved ‘til last. So, not only would we like to thank Spanish designer Emilio de la Morena for putting on such a beautiful show, but also for ensuring our lattes tasted more of toffee caramel and less of tears.
The inspiration: Picasso and questions of femininity
Last season, Emilio de la Morena took his muse to Ibiza. This season audiences entered Somerset House’s courtyard space to find a backdrop image of an ordinary village street, dimly lit by street lamps. For AW15/16, de la Morena follows his muse’s fearless, high-octane glamour in to unlikely territory in order to explore questions of femininity and identity.
Ever inspired by the art world, this season he particularly focuses on Picasso, his Harlequin, and his increasingly abstract paintings. With this in mind, de la Morena relies on the rhomboid pattern that characterises the harlequin’s costume in a number of his designs, whilst ideas of cubism inform an innovative use of patchwork and ornamentation.
The colours: Metallics and opulent jewel tones
As we’ve come to expect from Emilio de la Morena, his AW15/16 palette is characteristically opulent. Shimmering metallics dominate; gold, gunmetal, bronze and steel all glimmer in the right light, but with a matte look finish feel like a grown up, understated approach to new season sparkle.
Deep jewel tones – plum purples and gem stone greens – only add to the elegant, gothic romance as they weave themselves around the metallics. De la Morena’s desire to juxtapose femininity and strength is particularly obvious as the rich, midnight hues soften the severity of the precious metals.
The shapes: Cut outs and body con
As we’ve been seeing on red carpets recently, cut outs are becoming increasingly risqué, and they’re showing no sign of stopping as we look to this year’s fall trends. Seriously high thigh splits, off the shoulder sleeves and strategically placed, Harlequin-inspired diamonds dominated the catwalk, but couture construction techniques create much needed structure, sculpting refined cocktail and evening silhouettes.
The fabrics: Velvet and sheer
As we sat watching de la Morena’s show, eyes wide with lust, what induced the most excited whispers within the team were the breath taking fabrics the designer has worked with this season. Soft velvets dip and dive over coarse jacquard and brocade. The delicate nature of intricate lace contrasts with and breaks up large expanses of fabric. Allowing a little skin to peek through, it also nods to the sheer trend going on elsewhere on the catwalk. Indeed, cut outs need not always cut straight through to bare skin. Increasingly we’re seeing sheer, metallic materials striking the perfect balance between racy and graceful.
