The UK capital’s passionate love affair with all things edible and Bel Paese stretches back to the first delicatessens, eateries and cafes which opened around Clerkenwell during the 1830s. An influx of refugees fleeing the Napoleonic Wars had landed at the turn of the century and within a few decades introduced the city to their culinary expertise. From what we’ve tasted, nobody’s looked back since.
Times have changed, though, and standards of Italian food in London have never been higher, nor the choice more overwhelming. Now, one of the leading names in the game, Dez Amore, has launched its first stand-alone restaurant at 273 Fulham Road, Chelsea, where the interior has been transformed into ‘Nonna’s home’, a theme inspired by Italian grandmothers and their 1970s dining rooms. Stepping back in time, guests are transported via a combination of framed doilies, embroidery, ceramic plates, family photos and old postcards, adding a little theatre set magic to the scene.
Like the menu itself, classic iconography is contrasted by bold, modern statements, most notably the open kitchen, which fills the air with incredible aromas and means customers can watch as their food is prepared in full view. Designed by TIMOTHEE Studio, a specialist interior, decorating, furniture and lighting agency based in Florence, the cosy, rustic space also has a dedicated corner filled with even more curios, artefacts and objects, putting this place in the running for Most Instagram-Friendly Opening of 2024.
As for the food, Dez Amore keeps things reassuringly simple and wholeheartedly hearty in another nod to authentic Italian food culture. Four types of pasta are available, all freshly made on-site using minimal ingredients: tagliatelle, caserecce, gnocchi and filled ravioli. Options include a real staple of The Beautiful Country — Ravioli, Butter & Sage. Alternatively, punt for Tagliatelle Truffle Sauce, Tagliatelle Tomato & Burrata, or Caserecce Carbonara and you’ll still keep things traditional, just like Nonna would’ve made.
Pasta aside, the other section of Dez Amore’s menu is dedicated to burgers, and this is where things start to get more modern and less concerned with age-old customs. Patties are handmade using 100% free-range English beef, and most toppings are imported from the spectacular landscapes of Tuscany. Think Pecorino cheese, porcini mushrooms, and Chianti-soaked caramelised onions, and you’re on the right lines. Again, things are quite pared-back, allowing the quality of the produce to really shine. Just three Signature Burgers are on offer — Tuscan DOC, Truffle, Tasty & Juicy — alongside the option to build your own.
Already renowned for running mouthwatering kitchens at some of London’s most beloved food markets, including the stunning Mercato Mayfair at St Mark’s Church, Camden Town, and Elephant & Castle, Dez Amore was founded by two friends who are originally from Florence.
Leonardo Masi is an experienced chef with a history of pasta-making stretching back to his childhood, whilst Simone Parentini was born into a glass-making family but has had a lifelong obsession with the flavours of his native Tuscany. Let’s face it, who hasn’t? Many reviews suggest you can taste their passion in every fork and mouthful, and now there’s never been a better excuse to put that claim to the test.
