Future of Hair Removal: Lasers Pave Way for Faster, Safer, and More Efficient Tech
Laser hair removal is a leading non-surgical cosmetic procedure worldwide, ranking 3rd after botulinum toxin (Botox) and hyaluronic acid injections. In 2024, the global laser hair removal market was valued at approximately $1.2 billion and is projected to reach around $4.61 billion by 2032, growing at a CAGR of 18.1%.
According to photonics experts from Altechna, a global custom laser optics manufacturing company, this popularity shows how important ongoing developments in laser technology are for addressing historical challenges and enhancing treatment efficacy and safety.
Laser hair removal technologies were primarily designed for individuals with light skin and dark hair due to the way lasers target melanin in hair follicles. This makes the procedure less effective and risky for those with darker skin tones, as the most popular lasers in the industry absorb more into the surrounding skin, increasing the probability of burns or hyperpigmentation.
Similarly, procedures for lighter hair colors, such as blonde or gray, remain challenging because they contain less melanin. It reduces the laser’s ability to effectively target and destroy the follicle.
“Recent collaborations between photonics experts and dermatology professionals have improved hair removal procedures. As the industry grew, it was clear that there was a lack of inclusivity on how it was being applied. The development of lasers with adjustable wavelengths and integrated cooling systems has recently expanded treatment options–it is now applicable to diverse skin tones and hair colors. But it’s very important to understand what kind of lasers work for which use cases,” said Deividas Buinovskis, CTO of Altechna.
Several main laser types are being used in the hair removal market. Initial FDA-approved systems used ruby (694 nm) and alexandrite (755 nm) lasers, effective for light skin but posing a higher risk of burns for darker tones due to melanin absorption. Diode (800–1000 nm) and Nd:YAG (1064 nm) systems, in the meanwhile, were introduced as safer for darker skin, enabling deeper penetration into the dermis and reducing side effects.
Cooling mechanisms actively regulate skin temperature during treatment, minimizing discomfort and the risk of thermal damage.
Multi-wavelength systems are the latest in the field. Such advanced laser systems combine lasers used for different applications into one. For example, they could use lasers of 755 nm, 810 nm, and 1064 nm wavelengths, which adapts them to various skin tones and hair types. While multi-wavelength systems improve versatility, they also introduce complexity in optical engineering, experts explain. Precision optics become necessary to ensure uniform performance across all wavelengths.
“It’s not as simple as just mixing these lasers into one system: we now have to introduce way more complex optics as well. Additionally, the quality of optical coatings limits the speed of the procedure, and we have to put technological effort into that,” Buinovskis added. “While one-fits-all is a widely marketed laser-based hair removal technique, which is even mentioned as already available for at-home use, we warn that best results wouldn’t be met with such quick at-home solutions.”
Research shows that professional lasers are almost 60% better–they achieve up to 88% hair reduction, while home-use devices only reach about 52%. The difference is due to different laser power, spot size, and cooling systems, which impact both effectiveness and long-term results.
For example, larger spot sizes reduce the scattering of photons outside the treatment zone, which increases energy efficiency and allows faster treatment of larger areas. Variable spot sizes enable practitioners to treat both large areas (e.g., legs) and small zones (e.g., upper lip) with the same device.
Deividas Buinovskis attributes the disparity in efficacy between professional and at-home devices to 3 factors.
“The difference in efficacy between professional and at-home laser hair removal devices relies on 3 factors: laser power, optical precision, and treatment adaptability. Professional-grade systems operate at higher power levels. Therefore, they ensure tissue is penetrated deeper, hair reduction is long-term. They also incorporate advanced optics, which is not really possible for miniaturized devices, such as specialized filters that optimize energy delivery using multiple wavelengths, allowing to target specific tissues,” explained Buinovskis.
Professional devices also often feature larger applicators (e.g., 8 cm² vs. 3 cm² in some systems). It speeds up treatment and improves reliability by maintaining consistent energy distribution.
Despite the challenges, Buinovskis claims that the technology is headed to become even more efficient soon.
“We’re now pushing the boundaries of optical efficiency while maintaining cost-effectiveness. For example, high-speed diode lasers already reduce the time of large-area hair removal to less than 15 minutes, but when procedures cause any kind of discomfort, they can still be improved,” concluded Buinovskis. “The growth of technology should be exponential. Besides crucial advancements in laser optics, incorporation of different laser systems and reduction of side-effects, combining lasers with radiofrequency or ultrasound techniques may improve both hair reduction and skin texture even further.”