Dressmaking 101: The Ultimate Fabric Glossary for Beginners
While many people turn to the convenience and practicality of shopping for store-bought clothing items, nothing beats the feeling of creating something that’s uniquely yours and tailored to your style and preferences. Even if you’re creating custom-made pieces for clients rather than yourself, there’s something personal about putting together every stitch, combining different materials and letting the colours speak for themselves as the final piece comes together. For beginners, this may seem like a daunting task – especially since sometimes the fabrics don’t cooperate and clothes don’t turn out the way you expect them to.
What Fabrics Are Best for Beginner Dressmakers?
When you visit a well-stocked online fabric store, you may feel overwhelmed by the sheer number of choices. Lots of options, lots of patterns and lots of thinking to do so you play your cards just right. Luckily, a few options have a long and loving relationship with dressmakers, thanks to their widespread popularity and ease of handling.
Cotton Lawn
Kicking things off is a lightweight, finely woven fabric that consists of a 100% cotton base. It’s often associated with a smooth and lustrous texture with excellent breathability, thanks to its fine and thread-count yarns.
The fabric’s semi-transparent and sheer appearance offers an elegant drape, which is suitable for delicate blouses, dresses and linings. It’s quite easy to handle and work with for beginners since it responds well to pressing and maintains its original shape during sewing.
One downside is that it may require additional lining for greater opacity in certain garments. But even so, cotton lawn is quite skin-friendly and suitable for warmer weather.
Polyester
A common sight in any online fabric store, polyester is a durable, wrinkle-resistant and easy-to-care-for synthetic material. Even though it’s less breathable than natural fibres, it effortlessly mimics the appearance of wool or silk and compensates for its shortcomings with admirable strength and longevity.
Thanks to its durable and easy-care nature, polyester is less prone to shrinking and stretching, which means it maintains its original shape for longer. As such, it’s commonly used for sports or activewear, particularly due to its quick-drying and mildew-resistant capabilities.
On the downside, it’s less breathable than natural options and can retain odours, which suggests it may not be as comfortable during warmer periods.
As far as dressmaking goes, it can sometimes feel slippery so you’d need sharp needles and iron-clad patience. However, it frays less than other fabrics and can hold pleats or structured shapes well, which can speed up some dressmaking tasks.
Linen
As a natural fibre derived from flax plants, linen is highly valued for its breathability, durability and moisture-wicking properties. Its crisp texture and somewhat coarse weave soften even more with each wash, while its natural lustre offers a refined and sophisticated twist to each garment.
While it does wrinkle easily, this has slowly become its much-loved trait as it gives each piece some character. Naturally, you can avoid excessive creasing with blends and make use of its somewhat stiff texture before undergoing several washing cycles.
You can use this one for summer dresses, wide-leg pants and tunics, which can offer some much-needed breathability during warmer weather. Even though it frays slightly, you can finish up raw edges to add to its durability.
Lace
Next up is an openwork material that often includes intricate patterns with looping, braiding or twisting threads. As such, you can use it as a decorative element and embellishment for evening dresses, formalwear and bridal gowns.
Its delicate nature calls for careful handling during sewing and it often benefits from being layered over more resilient fabrics. Depending on its pattern and weight, lace can range from soft and flowing to stiff and structured.
A pro tip when handling lace would be to use a zigzag stitch to allow for greater flexibility. Focus on hand-stitching each piece to keep the seams in check and avoid fraying.
Denim
Coming up next on the list is denim, which is a sturdy cotton twill material that consists of diagonal ribbing and sturdy build quality. Heavier denim is commonly used for jeans and jackets, whereas lighter weights are often found in shirts, dresses and skirts.
Some of the material’s defining characteristics are its long-lasting and wear-resistant characteristics, despite softening with each wear. Handling this material is relatively easy but requires heavy-duty needles to pinch through the fabric.
Moreover, seam allowances sometimes need trimming so there’s no added bulk and may require additional reinforcing for better durability. The latter may include flat-felled or topstitching to reinforce certain areas.
Bamboo Jersey
Bamboo jersey is an interesting material as it consists of bamboo fibres, which give it its signature soft and breathable texture with a natural sheen. Its strengths are its moisture-wicking and hypoallergenic properties, which means it’s suitable for close-fitting garments like T-shirts, dresses and activewear.
The fabric’s stretch provides ease of movement, but this can also make it challenging to sew, as it may stretch out of shape if not handled properly. You can use a ballpoint needle and walking foot to manage its elasticity during sewing. Make sure to hem the edges carefully to avoid curling and use a serger or zigzag stitch to maintain its flexibility.
Cupro
Next up is a regenerated cellulose material that’s derived from cotton linter, with fine fibres surrounding the cotton seed. It boasts a silk-like feel, drapes elegantly and absorbs dyes well, which can result in versatile, vibrant and fashion-forward designs.
However, it can be slippery like satin, so it requires careful pinning and cutting and using fine needles to prevent damage. It can also fray easily so you should definitely add finishing seams and a structured stitch to help it retain its shape.
Wool
The final option for visiting an online fabric shop is wool, which is a natural fibre obtained from the fleece of sheep and other animals like goats and alpacas. It’s known for its warmth, elasticity, and resilience. Wool fabrics can range from lightweight jerseys to heavy coatings, each offering different properties.
They’re breathable, moisture-wicking, and have natural insulating properties, making them ideal for suits, coats, and sweaters. Wool can be felted to create dense, warm fabrics or woven into fine, smooth textiles. It requires careful handling, as it can shrink or felt if exposed to heat and agitation. Dry cleaning is often recommended, though some wool fabrics can be hand-washed with appropriate care.