Issey Miyake took the theme “rhythmatic forest” as inspiration for the AW14 collection
The excitement was palpable as the fash pack poured into Jardin de Tuileries on the Friday of Paris Fashion Week for the Issey Miyake AW14 show. The master of the pleat knew how to build anticipation in his audience and it would seem his successor Yoshiyuki Miyamae too has mastered the art of crafting quiet, impactful, suspense. As the live music began, the expectancy bubbled over and the opening sequence, not unlike the dramatic first credits of a film, beautifully, theatrically set the scene.
Models filed out in unison, dressed in black and carrying large semi-circular portfolios, which unfolded to become bouncy pleated dresses, promptly worn before they strutted off, eliciting a roaring round of applause from the crowd. Miyame took the theme “rhythmatic forest”, presenting silhouettes so buoyant with movement they seemed almost to be breathing. Enthused by the majesty of the forest, the houses signature pleating was morphed into ringed pleats and 3D steam stretch, to emulate towering trees and roots anchored firmly to the ground.
The aesthetic was largely graphic with abstract patterns combing with the pleats in a textural amalgamation, the movement within the garments proving mesmerizing. The palette was rich and deep, with greens, blues and red shades of the forest broken up with clean neutrals of white & black. Amongst the stand out garments were beautifully cut coats and sumptuous grey cashmere wraps, which enveloped the body. Slim silk trousers were paired with diverse, pleated jackets and the ensembles were finished which grounded the looks. The scalloped hems added a feminine flair and added a layered element that gave the pieces real depth. Starting with a fabulous all aubergine ensemble, complete with co-coordinating hosiery, the shapes continued through tunic styles paired with wide leg trousers and contrasting tulip skirts. The complete looks had an air of not just the Avant Garde, but also a functionality that seems to come easily in the hands of conceptual designers born of the orient.
The live music courtesy of guitarist Ei Wada and vocalist Chiyako only enhanced the enchanted atmosphere introduced by the clothing and the show notes perfectly summed up the essence of collection; “Cloth harbours the power of life: wrap yourself in it and feel an instantaneous metamorphosis into pure joy at the wonder of living.”
