The Blockbuster Show of the Season? Gucci SS17 Ready to Wear
The Blockbuster Show of the Season? Gucci SS17 Ready to Wear
When Alessandro Michele took the helm at Gucci last year, he breathed a new life into the brand that not even the most devoted of fashionistas could have anticipated. Gucci’s new creative impetus moved it into new territory and revenue of its parent company Kering grew considerably, proving that Michele can certainly deliver on all fronts. The AW16 collection was something else, and the Resort Collection shot at Chatsworth House with none other than Vanessa Redgrave was even more desirable, so we were eagerly anticipating the SS17 runway offering at Milan this week.
In a floor to ceiling pink setting, the dimly lit, misty runway was reminiscent of a Seventies nightclub with plush velvet and pink carpet for miles. Then out came the models. A plethora of models stepped out clad in 5 inch platforms, parading Michele’s latest creative vision. The first look was perfectly in line with the Seventies aura, and still held all the key details that transcend the seasons – the coveted double G belt remains and the horse-bit loafer reaches new heights. Rose pink accents in a lustworthy turban and unbuttoned, silk blouse, alongside a pink runway hint at the new colour du saison.
If you thought the collection would continue on the Seventies straight and narrow, think again. We were transported to the Eighties with oversized knitted co-ords, ruffles, and frills and lashings of sparkle on leggings and dresses. Throw in a dash of Renaissance, some sports luxe and a sprinkling of latex with Michele’s signature embroidery and embellishment and you’ve got something seriously incredibly going on.
Standout pieces include the suiting. Brocade, studded suede, double breasted, shorts suits – tailoring is a key focus but harking back to a more glamorous era meaning dressing for work just got very interesting. The Eastern inspirations are evident particularly across the suiting, with Chinese frog fastenings, dragon prints and Oriental florals updating the garments.
The collection is an array of majestic hues from iconic Gucci red, gold and green, to blush rose, canary yellow and bright orange. Michele has once again managed to create a collection that is so incredibly cohesive despite this veritable smorgasbord of detail. This is largely down to the accessories, always a strong point at Gucci. The monogram is still having a moment, with new embroidery and embellishment to the Dionysus bag whilst the Marmot appears in quilted red blossom printed satin. Models wore the now signature specs, some jewel encrusted, some slightly tinted, all equally consistent whether paired with a silk pyjama suit or a sequinned pineapple sleeve, peacock detail gown.
Another standout for us, on paper it sounds intriguing, or maybe something you might have drawn as a young child, but in real life it’s incredibly stunning. All of the gowns are compelling, one emblazoned with a heart pierced with a jewelled dagger, another bejewelled with tiger stripes.
Each look was decidedly more opulent than the next, and despite the low lighting, stood out just as they would in a crowded Seventies nightclub. As Michele himself describes it, “You know, when you are in love, in a nightclub, but you are not in the right place, the person is not there?” The Gucci muse is not out looking for love, she is missing her beau, echoed in the dagger heart and the two-in-one platform to flats for when she wants to hang up her dancing shoes and head home. Let us not be fooled though, the Gucci is a unique blend of new-age romanticism with high octane glamour.