Matilda Lowther opened the Burberry Prorsum ‘English Rose’ Spring/Summer 14 show at London Fashion Week
Undoubtedly one of London’s biggest shows, the fashion elite flocked to Kensington Gardens on Tuesday afternoon for the Burberry Prorsum SS14 presentation. Christopher Bailey is not a designer one expects the Avant-Garde from, rather bold and beautiful interpretations of Burberry’s heritage combined with modern technology – Tuesday’s show was perfectly in keeping with that. The inspiration was the idea of an English Rose garden, dusky floral shades contrasted with the vibrancy of thorns. Lines were kept simple; the real beauty of the garments came from Bailey’s carefully selected and locally sourced fabrics. The cashmere, which was in abundance, was from Scotland and the show-stealing lace from Nottingham was woven in cotton, creating an intricacy from a resilient fabric.
Speaking out after the show, Bailey said he wanted to convey “ a mix of craft, gentleness and romance” communicated with modernity, perfectly realised through his fitted skirts, well cut blouses, loose knits in a palette of sugared almonds. The show opened with unlined pencil skirts paired with coordinating shirts in lace, all delicately sheer. The silhouette was librarian chic, with fabulous high-waisted lace knickers peeking out from underneath, adding an element of cheekiness. The show may have been Spring/Summer, but it was refreshing to see Britain’s temperamental weather catered for with exquisite layering options with a profusion of cashmere knits; jumpers, long draping shawl knits and double-faced cashmere coats draped over the delicate lace ensembles. And of course we mustn’t forget the houses classic trench; ultra feminine this season and close to the body in pastel lace.
Bailey mentioned “craft” several times during the post show interviews and it is perhaps most perfectly demonstrated in his embellishment and motifs. What appeared to be an oversized polka dot print was on closer inspection an appliquéing of black lace on cream and giant beaded adornments gave the feminine ensembles bite. The craftsmanship was impeccable. Heavy beading on a chiffon or PVC base is no easy feat but Baily pulled it off it wonderfully with two of our favourite looks; a lace t-shirt worn with a beaded skirt and a transparent beaded cape, as worn by Cara Delevingne. In Bailey’s own words, the collection was “gentle, soft & romantic yet fluid” and we certainly couldn’t agree more.
Enjoy the entire show here:
